Most Malaysian roads are well maintained and perfectly paved – even in the remoter corners of the country – so exploring the country with a hire car is a real no-brainer. The majority of travelers can fly in, rent a car with a home license for 90 days, making for easy road trips across this country of beaches, jungles and historic cities.

To get you on the road, here are the eight best road trips in Malaysia.

The great West Coast crawl

Best scenic drive

Kuala Lumpur–Penang; 249 miles (400km); allow 6 days

Skip the busy E1 highway north of Kuala Lumpur and trace the less-traveled west coast on Route 5 via a string of often missed towns such as riverside Kuala Selangor (home to the historic Bukit Malawati fort) and rural Sekinchan. Pass through endless paddy fields and veer inland to Teluk Intan via Sabak to marvel at the Menara Condong, Asia’s own version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Route 5 snakes back to the coast via Sitiawan and Lumut, where frequent ferries leave to Pulau Pangkor, home to flocks of hornbills, boat-making workshops and peaceful jungle-backed coves.

Continuing north, Route 60 stays glued to the sea, skirting Segari’s turtle conservation center and the beaches of Pantai Remis, a hub for Sino-Malay food. Up next is the unmissable lake town of Taiping, voted the third most sustainable city in the world in 2019, from where it’s a 15-minutes detour to mangrove boat rides and fresh seafood in Kuala Sepetang.

Take a left turn along the A190 at the Simpang Empat Semanggol turnoff and time travel back to colonial Malaya in the fishing town of Kuala Kurau. Branch off to nearby Kuala Gula, home to Malaysia’s biggest bird sanctuary and the Hua Seng Keng temple, a life-sized depiction of the ghoulish layers of Buddhist Hell.

Make one last stop in Parit Buntar to buy a bag of much-loved Guan Hiang biscuits (and take an evening firefly cruise in nearby Nibong Tebal, if time allows). To finish up, cross to Penang island by whizzing over the 15 mile (24km) Second Bridge to the southern beaches of Permatang Damar Laut, facing the island’s most scenic bay. Traipse up to historic George Town to finish off with a spectacular street food dinner.

East Coast road trip 

Best for beaches and islands

Kota Bahru–Kuantan or Pekan; 230 miles (370km); allow 4 days

This classic coastal ride packs a punch, with splendid turquoise-ringed islands, minaret-studded river estuaries and cultural surprises along the fringes of Peninsular Malaysia’s most devoutly Islamic states. Before you leave Kota Bharu, Kelantan’s conservative capital, cruise 12.5 miles (20km) north to check out the group of curious Sino-Thai temples dotting the countryside around Tumpat, gateway to Thailand’s troubled southern province of Narathiwat. Wat Mai Suwan Kiri (Dragon Boat Temple) is particularly striking. 

Start by the journey south by following the coast. A string of wide, empty beaches rolls all the way to Kuala Terengganu and Marang, and some of Malaysia’s most gorgeous islands – Pulau Perhentian, Pulau Redang and Pulau Kapas – are just a short boat ride away. The easiest island for a day trip is Pulau Perhentian, served by regular fast boats from Kuala Besut.

Route 3 hugs the shoreline as it plunges south past forgotten coves (stop to admire the imposing twin boulders at the mouth of Kemasik Beach) to reach the surf playground of Cherating. As you roll into Kuantan, the pace of life gets a tad faster; a sunset stroll at lively Pantai Teluk Cempedak and dinner at its busy food court are must-dos. To extend the trip, head 25 miles (40km) south to Pekan, with its unique collection of aristocratic Malay architecture.

The jungle drive

Best for families

Penang–Kuala Lumpur; 434 miles (700km); allow 10 days

Start in Penang and see how quickly Malaysia’s urban surge gives way to the drowsy rhythms of the remote settlements dotted around the country’s mountainous and jungly interior. Beginning in George Town’s incensed-wafted colonial center, drive across Kedah state to Lenggong, perhaps Malaysia’s least-known Unesco World Heritage Site. Hollowed out by a meteorite impact, this little-explored valley boasts a cluster of prehistoric sites and caves dating back 1.83 million years.

Continue to Tasik Temenggor, a man-made lake offering charming houseboat stays and easy access to Royal Belum State Park, one of the last remaining habitats for the critically endangered Malayan tiger. Route 4 keeps climbing across the 6890ft (2100m) Titiwangsa Range before plunging via Jeli to Dabong, where Gunung Stong State Forest Park and the deep limestone cave complex of Gua Ikan make for perfect pit-stops.

Swing by Gua Musang to reach blissful Pulai, a remote Chinese Hakka community that was only reached by a tarmac road in 1978. Its sloshing river is backed by rows of limestone karst pinnacles reminiscent of China’s Guilin.

Before you reach sleepy Jerantut, the main gateway to the jungle wonders of Taman Negara, there’s more caving and hiking at Merapoh and a chance to encounter the leftovers of British colonial rule in Kuala Lipis, once an important stop for Malaysia’s discontinued Jungle Railway. Spend at least a day hiking in Taman Negara (or exploring by boat), and then drive towards the capital, stopping for a taste of spiky durian at Temerloh or jumbo-sized encounters at Kuala Gandah’s elephant sanctuary.

The final ascent over cloud-enshrouded peaks on the Karak Highway is best broken either at the casinos and theme parks of the Genting Highlands, or with a glamping stay in the quaint riverside village of Janda Baik. Wrap up with a well-deserved dose of shopping and modernity at Kuala Lumpur’s Suria KLCC mall, and pay your respects to the 140ft (43m) golden statue of Lord Murugan fronting the 272 rainbow-colored steps that lead to the Hindu shrines of the Batu Caves.

Southern Malaysian crawl

Best for food and culture

Kuala Lumpur–Johor Bahru; 318 miles (512km); allow 5 days

Leave the bustle of the capital behind to experience sand, culture and nature on both sides of the peninsula. Start by driving down the southwestern coast, taking in the beach resort of Port Dickson and the former Dutch colonial outpost (and fusion food hub) of Melaka, now a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Before cutting across the peninsula to Mersing – the main ferry port for wild and lovely Pulau Tioman – try a smorgasbord of Chinese and Malay food in Muar, the diminutive royal city of Johor state, and take a pit stop in offbeat Kluang to hike to the scenic summit of Gunung Lambak.

With a couple of extra days, consider the short detour north to Bekok and the waterfalls and villages of Endau-Rompin National Park, home to many communities of Orang Asli – literally, “first peoples.” Driving south from Mersing, the southeastern coast curves to reach the swanky beach resorts of Desaru, famed for a sandbar that becomes a ‘sky mirror’ at low tide. It’s just a short drive to sprawling Johor Bahru, Malaysia’s southernmost city, which rises just across the strait from futuristic Singapore.

Sarawak explorer

Best for wildlife and indigenous culture

Kuching–Miri; 466 miles (750km); allow 6 days

Experience amazing wildlife, indigenous Dayak culture and lush coastal scenery by driving a considerable section of the Pan Borneo Highway. Before you leave Kuching, pay a visit to Semenggoh Wildlife Centre for encounters with rescued orangutans (come for feeding time at 9am and 3pm daily), then drive inland past low, forested hills and ramshackle roadside settlements to Salcra junction. A short detour to Lubuk Hantu leads to Batang Ai National Park, an artificial lake teeming with wildlife and ringed by Iban longhouses.

Grab some juicy pineapples as you pass through quaint Sarikei before reaching the riverport of Sibu, where delicious Teochew cuisine pairs well with trips to 18th-century longhouses in nearby Bawang Assan. Join the coast at Mukah, the main settlement of the seafaring Melanau people, and consider an overnight stop at the superb Lamin Dana, a boutique cultural lodge preserving local heritage in Kampung Tellian.

The quiet glare of the South China Sea will shimmer on your windshield until you reach oil-rich Bintulu, where Pantai Tanjung Batu is a good spot to tuck your toes into the sand. Head northeast of the city to Similajau National Park for jungle hikes before hitting the road again towards Miri.

The staggering limestone caves of Niah National Park are a must-stop along the way; inhabited for nearly 40 millennia, they contain some of Southeast Asia’s oldest human bones. After a day trip to Lambir Hills National Park south of Miri, end this epic drive at sunset on Canada Hill – the site of the city’s first oil well – and enjoy views over the city’s sprawling coastline.

Kelabit Highland’s Logging Track

Best extreme road trip

Miri–Bario; 155 miles (250km); 10–14 hours

Almost everyone takes the thrilling Twin Otter flight from Miri to reach Bario, principal township of the fascinating Kelabit Highlands, an indigenous heartland straddling the border between Sarawak and Indonesian Kalimantan. However, a few hardy adventurers access the highlands by driving 4×4 vehicles along the rough and muddy logging track that winds from Miri into upper Sarawak’s wild interior.

Snaking through endless palm oil plantations – a sad reminder of Malaysia’s problematic logging issues –  this drive will rattle your bones at every turn for 12 long hours before you finally rumble into the very Catholic village of Bario, where lingering longhouses are a reminder of waning tribal lifestyles.

Classic Sabah crossing

Best coast-to-coast road trip

Kota Kinabalu–Sandakan; 200 miles (325km); allow 5 days

Take your leave of Kota Kinabalu’s night markets and outlying islands and head west towards 13,435ft (4095m) Mt Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest peak. Almost everyone makes the two-day, one-night trek to the summit, but you can also check the pulse of Sabah’s indigenous art scene at the Living Arts Center in charming riverside Tamparuli, and meet the woodcut artists of the Pangrok Sulap collective in Ranau before bunking down in alpine-like Kundasang.

Leaving the mountains behind, cut through the heart of Sabah, skirting small towns and ever-present palm oil plantations to the Sukau junction, where a worthy detour on the Kinabatangan River promises thrilling wildlife spotting by boat and atmospheric riverside accommodation. Roll on to Sepilok, with its world-renown orangutan and sun bear sanctuaries. A few more miles will take you to slow-paced, multicultural Sandakan and its bay filled with WWII history and fresh seafood.

Sabah by the backdoor 

Best offbeat road trip

Lahad Datu–Kota Kinabalu; 350 miles (564km); allow 7 days

To encounter some of Borneo’s most impressive rainforests, marine life and indigenous culture, take off from the coastal town Lahad Datu, beginning in either the Danum Valley Conservation Area or the Tabin Wildlife Reserve. Drive across the palm-strewn coast to the ugly duckling town of Semporna, the jump-off point for paradise islands such as Mabul, Kapalai and protected Sipadan, one of the world’s best dive sites.

Back on land, try Tawau’s deserted beaches and follow nature trails at Tawau Hills Park before setting out for a lonesome drive across Sabah’s hilly interior to Orou Sapulot, an important hub for the Murut people, and the town of Keningau at the bottom of the flower-studded Crocker Range. End at Kota Kinabalu’s busy seafront and glitzy shopping malls, after one more stop in Tambunan, access point for 8668ft (2642m) Mount Trusmadi, Sabah’s second-highest peak. 

Tips for driving in Malaysia

Malaysia drives on the left, like the UK, and citizens of the 54 countries in the Commonwealth can rent a car using their home driving licenses for up to 90 days (other nationals will also need to carry an International Driving Permit).

To access any toll road in Malaysia, including the bridges leading to Penang island, you’ll need to pay with a rechargeable Touch’n’Go card that is only issued to Malaysians. Ask your rental company for one if you plan on driving any stretch of the North-South Expressway (Route E1) or the Karak Highway connecting Kuala Lumpur to Kuantan. Most other roads are well paved and toll-free.

The countryside is relatively quiet, but when driving in cities, be prepared for drivers flouting traffic rules, especially in Penang, whose erratic traffic is hard for even Malaysians coming from other states to cope with. Kuala Lumpur’s traffic system is also bewildering for first-timers. On weekdays, traffic jams are the norm in most Malaysian cities; Saturdays are usually quieter than Sundays.

Even better, the relaxed visa situation makes for easy detours to neighboring Singapore, Indonesia, Brunei and Thailand, though you’ll need to check the latest Covid restrictions before you travel. Here’s everything you need to know about visas for Malaysia. 

Can I travel to Malaysia without a visa? 

In normal circumstances, nationals of most countries in Europe, the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan (and many other countries) can visit Malaysia without a visa for a stay of up to 90 days. This applies to entries by air, land and sea. 

In practice, 90-day stays are usually given as the default if you arrive in Malaysia by air, but if you enter by land or by sea, you may be given a 30-day entry stamp unless you specifically ask for a longer permit. It’s worth doing this, as extending your stay may not be possible once the stamp is issued. 

On arrival, your passport will be stamped and you’ll need to fill out an arrival/departure card; just make sure your passport is valid for six months from the date of entry. Technically, the authorities can ask for proof of sufficient funds for your stay and a ticket for onward travel from Malaysia, but this is not usually requested. 

Some countries are granted a shorter stay in Malaysia

Citizens of Russia and many neighboring countries are granted a stay of one month on arrival, and similar rules apply to nationals of many countries in Africa and Central and South America. For longer stays, you’ll need to apply for a visa. 

Note that citizens of Israel can only enter Malaysia with written permission from Malaysia’s Ministry of Home Affairs, which rules out easy overland trips from Thailand to Singapore.

What are the visa requirements for Malaysia? 

If your home country is not on the visa-free travel list, or you’re planning a long stay, you’ll need to apply for a visa. However, be aware that the only visas valid for more than 90 days are the multi-entry visas reserved for business travelers.

Different rules apply to different countries. Tourist E-Visas lasting up to 30 days are issued to citizens of Serbia & Montenegro, China, India, and many other nations in South Asia and Africa. See the Immigration Department of Malaysia website for details of how to apply and a full list of approved countries. 

Other nationals will need to apply for a visa the old-fashioned way at a Malaysian embassy or consulate in their home country. The Malaysian Ministry of Home Affairs has a full list of Malaysian missions overseas; contact your local embassy for advice on the application process. 

Business and transit visas for Malaysia

For business trips, it’s usually fine to enter the country as if you were a tourist, but you are not permitted to work for any Malaysian company. Business travelers can also apply for long-duration multiple-entry visas, but the application process is complex – Malaysian embassies can provide details. 

Transit visas are also available, but as so many people can enter Malaysia without a visa, they’re rarely needed.   

What are the rules for travel to East Malaysia? 

Sabah and Sarawak – the two Malaysian states on the island of Borneo – retain a certain degree of control over their borders. Even if you arrive from Peninsular Malaysia, you must go through passport control and have your passport stamped. This also applies when traveling between Sabah and Sarawak via Brunei, and when traveling to the federal district of Pulau Labuan. 

When entering Sabah or Sarawak from another part of Malaysia, your new visa stamp will be valid only for the remainder of the period you were granted when you first entered Malaysia. If Malaysian Borneo is your first port of call in Malaysia, you’ll get the full, uninterrupted 30 or 90 days. 

Extending a Malaysia visa 

While the entry procedures for Malaysia can seem very relaxed, it’s important not to overstay your visa or the visa-free entry period. If you do, you can be detained, fined, deported, and blacklisted – it’s no laughing matter. 

In the past, it has been possible to extend a 30-day entry up to 90 days through the Immigration Department of Malaysia, but don’t rely on this being possible with the pandemic muddying the waters. Extending a 90-day stay is out of the question. 

The good news is that it is possible to prolong your stay in Malaysia by hopping across the border to a neighboring country. When you re-enter, you’ll be granted a new 30- or 90- day entry stamp on arrival. There’s rarely a problem if you do this once or twice, but the authorities may take a dim view if you repeat the so-called “visa run” too many times. 

On the peninsula, the easiest place to leave and re-enter Malaysia is Johor Bahru; local buses buzz across the causeway to Singapore day and night. The other easy option is Pulau Langkawi, which has ferries to Satun (year-round) and Ko Lipe (November to May) in Thailand. 

Alternatively, consider crossing the Thai border by train at Padang Besar, or take the ferry to Sumatra in Indonesia from Melaka or Johor Bahru. In East Malaysia, you can cross by bus or boat into Kalimantan in Indonesia, or make the easy hop into Brunei by bus from either Miri or Kota Kinabalu, or by boat from Pulau Labuan. 

The Malaysian peninsula is split in two by the 2183m (7162ft) Titiwangsa Range – the last refuge for the country’s elusive population of wild tigers and Asian elephants. This hilly backbone fractures into dozens of lesser hills and peaks spilling all the way to the jungle-backed coastline, where more foliage-clad islands await.

Across the South China Sea in the Malaysian part of Borneo, more mountain ranges and limestone massifs soar above the verdant rainforests of Sabah and Sarawak, offering still more chances to get off the beaten track and test your limits.

Ready for some sweaty tropical workouts? Then lace up your hiking boots, bring plenty of water, and don’t forget to pack a pair of leech socks… Here are the 10 best hikes in Malaysia.  

Mt Kinabalu, Sabah

Best high-altitude multi-day hike

8.5km (5.25 miles), 2 days, easy to moderate

Rising like a pointy fang from the jungles of northern Borneo, Mt Kinabalu is Malaysia’s highest peak, and it’s a sacred site for the indigenous Kadazan-Dusun people of Sabah. The clouds that seem to perennially shroud its 4095m (13,435ft) summit – known since colonial times as Low’s Peak – are believed to be formed from the resting souls of their ancestors.

Getting to the top of Low’s Peak is a physically challenging but relatively straightforward climb starting from the Timphoon Gate, beyond the flower-studded park that covers the lower slopes of the mountain. The trail winds up through mossy forests draped with orchids and clumps of pitcher plants and colorful stands of rhododendrons up to 3000m (9843ft), where hikers spend the night at one of several rest houses. 

The final push for the summit involves a 2am start, timed to deliver hikers to Mt Kinabalu’s barren, wave-like tip as the sunrise explodes in myriad shades of purple above a quintessentially Malaysian awan karpet (carpet of clouds). 

Penang Hill, George Town

Best urban hike

5.8km (3.6 miles) round trip, 4–6 hours, moderate

Mention Penang, and most will think of the street art, hip cafes and colonial architecture of its capital George Town, not the forested hills stretching from the town limits to the northwestern corner of the island. This natural wonderland covers 12,481 hectares of marine and terrestrial ecosystems, but most visitors see just the small section around Penang Hill – colonial Malaya’s first hill station, famed for its views over the Straits Sea and the Malaysian mainland.

Since 2021, this expanse of forest has been protected as Malaysia’s third Unesco Biosphere Reserve. The most popular way to reach the 830m (2723ft) summit is on one of the world’s steepest funicular railways, but we recommend taking the scenic route via the tangle of interconnected jungle trails that snake their way up the hill from Penang Botanical Gardens. You can also start the hike from Penang City Park (aka Youth Park), or from Moongate, a circular Chinese gateway that was once the gateway to a millionaire’s estate.

The most straightforward route is the Heritage Trail, a knee-grinding staircase ascent that follows the steep tracks of the funicular railway, but it’s more rewarding to take more circuitous jungle trails. There’s a good chance of encounters with endangered and endemic flying lemurs, dusky leaf monkeys, hooting macaques and a staggering 144 different types of orchids.

If you have the time and stamina, after reaching the top of Penang Hill, you can continue for a further five hours through dense dipterocarp forest to the top of 725m (2378ft) Laksamana Hill, Penang’s second-highest peak. Wind up by descending to the beaches at Teluk Bahang for a well-deserved rest, before taking the Rapid Penang bus back to George Town.   

Bukit Beruang, Melaka

Best easy day hike

5km (3.1 miles) round trip, 2–3 hours, easy to moderate
Rising above the Portuguese churches, Chinese shrines and river-facing guesthouses of former Dutch enclave, Melaka, Bukit Beruang (Bear Hill) doesn’t seem like a tough hike. The summit is just 116m (381ft) above sea level. But it all depends on which of the three trails to the summit you take. For the easy option, walk up via the 2.5km (1.5 mile) paved road to the telecommunications tower that dominates the hilltop.

If you want something more fun, two sweatier and more inspiring trails climb through thick walls of forest on the other side of the hill. Pick up these well-marked paths in either Taman Bunga Raya or Taman Muzzaffar Height. However you reach the top, proceed from the tower to the nearby lookout point known as “Eye on Melaka,” where the historic streets loom into view.  

Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill)

Best hill station hike

20km (12 miles) round trip, 10 hours, moderate

Malaysia’s second-oldest hill station opened in 1884 at the top of 1250m (4101ft) Bukit Larut, also known as Maxwell Hill. This steep range of viridian hills stands like a protective fan above the exquisite lake town of Taiping. The route to the top of Bukit Larut wasn’t a very attractive affair until the end of 2021, when the organizing committee responsible for the yearly Malaysia Mountain Trail Festival opened three new summit paths through the jungle, as an alternative to the paved road used by jeeps.

These trails snake from the base of the mountain to the Box, one of the old colonial bungalows that pepper the atmospheric mist-covered summit of the hill, and the skeletal Telecom Tower that dominates the far side of the ridge. To make the climb, you’ll need a RM10 (US$2.40) permit and a mandatory guide (RM15/US$3.60).

At 350m (1148ft), take a stop at the sloshing Ranting Waterfall before making a steep ascent through ancient dipterocarp forests that thicken as the trail climbs into the clouds. Beware of the leeches, and don’t forget to carry a raincoat, as bouts of heavy rain are almost daily occurrences in Taiping. The bungalows on the top are open for group stays, or you can camp (RM20/US$4.80) near the waterfall or at the bottom of the hill.

Gunung Tahan, Taman Negara National Park

Best multi-day jungle trek

55km (34 miles) round trip, 6 to 7 days, hard

The best – and toughest – way to explore the rainforest wonderland that is Taman Negara is to cross it on foot, via the 2187m (7175ft) summit of Gunung Tahan, the highest point in Peninsular Malaysia. Ringed by the world’s most ancient rainforest, this is serious wildlife-spotting country, and you’ll need a guide to escort you (RM1200/US$287 for up to seven days), plus camping equipment and enough food supplies to last for a week.

The best way to tackle this adventure through elephant, tiger and tapir territory is to enter and exit from Kuala Tahan, Taman Negara’s main entry point. Alternatively, you can come in and out via Sungai Relau, the national park’s northwestern entrance near the town of Merapoh. Shorter and easier four-day, three-night treks that combine a jeep ride and a hike to Gunung Tahan’s summit also start and end here.

Broga Hill, Kuala Lumpur

Best hike near Kuala Lumpur

3.4km (2.11 miles) round trip, 90 minutes, easy

The quaint village of Broga, near Semenyih, has a 400m (1312ft) hill that attracts a steady stream of enthusiastic hikers from Kuala Lumpur. It only takes 30 to 45 minutes to reach the treeless hilltop with its undulating sea of lalang grass, but the climb is steep in places and the walk will get your heart pumping.

There are stunning views over the Kuala Lumpur skyline and the surrounding Klang valley from the grassy plateau, but the place can get packed, especially on weekends. It’s best to climb on a weekday and at sunrise to beat the crowds. Aim to start by 6:30am to catch the sunrise at around 7:15am. If you have any energy left, a path leads from the summit to 675m (2215ft) Gunung Tok Wan, a more challenging hike through jungle scenery (but without the valley views).

The Pinnacles, Gunung Mulu National Park

Best adventure hike

4.8 km (2.9 miles) round trip, 4–5 hours, hard

Tucked into the densely-forested interior of northern Sarawak, the giant caves and turbid streams of Gunung Mulu National Park thoroughly deserve their status as a Unesco World Heritage Site. One of the highlights of a visit to this stunning reserve is the tough hike up 1750m (5740ft) Gunung Api to marvel at the Pinnacles – a series of razor-sharp limestone outcrops that look like petrified flames, some rising 50m (164ft) from the jungle floor.

The first stage involves a 9km (5.6 mile) slog through a dense, flat area of dipterocarp forest to reach Camp 5. From this basic riverside shelter, the hike proper will start the next day at the crack of dawn. Hikers who fail to reach the upper slopes quickly enough may be turned back by guides, as they’re not considered fit enough to carry on with the extreme final climb to the Pinnacles viewpoint at 1200m (3937ft). The vertigo-inducing final stretch, via a series of impossibly-perched metallic staircases, will test your calves and your nerves.

Panorama Hill, Pahang

Best hike for sunrise views

4.8km (3 miles) round trip, 1–2 hours, easy

The Sungai Lembing river is a well-known destination for eco-tourism in southeastern Pahang state, and Panorama Hill is its main drawcard. One of the main reasons people flock to this 271m (889ft) viewpoint is its perfect location – the summit is only 150m (492ft) away from the main road, via a well-manned flight of stairs that can be climbed in just half an hour.

To beat the crowds, start hiking as early as 6am to reach the ridge summit by 7am, as the sunrise paints the clouds in tones of purple before the mists dissolve to reveal the Sungai Lembing valley and the karst outcrop containing the Buddhist Charas cave.

Batu Punggol

Best offbeat hike

244m (800ft) round trip, 2 hours, hard

Sacred to the Murut people of southwestern Sabah, this rocky outcrop is not for acrophobics. Batu Punggol is only accessible by a canoe ride along a jungle river, followed by a strenuous hike through untamed rainforest to reach the base of the crag. The reason for coming here is to attempt the scary, two-hour ascent of this lonesome limestone pinnacle, which sticks up like a rocky thumb above a carpet of hooting jungle.

Batu Punggol is best reached from the Orou Sapulot ecotourism project with the help of local guides, who can steer you up the tricky last stretch of this almost vertical ascent over bare, sharp rocks. It’s certainly a testing workout, but the views from the top stretch as far as Kalimantan in Indonesia and are well worth the adrenaline and sweat it takes to reach the top.

Tawau Hills Park

Best hike for wildlife-spotting

26km (16 miles) round trip, two days and one night, easy to moderate

Offbeat Tawau, Sabah’s southern frontier city, has grown in status as a hub for natural adventures and wildlife-spotting in recent years. The climb to the volcanic summit of 1240m (4068ft) Mt Lucia starts right from the headquarters of Tawau Hills Park, and you’ll see rare hornbills, supersized jungle insects and Bornean frogs along the trails.

Reaching the top of Mt Lucia involves a day-long slog up a well-marked trail, following a forested mountain ridge strewn with large trees. At the summit, hikers can stay overnight with local park rangers in a rustic but comfortable chalet that’s a great base for night hikes. Look out for Malay civets, Sambar deer and other night critters.

You may be stirred from your slumbers by the whoop of a gibbon, or the echoing coo of the rare helmeted hornbill, before you make a call on whether to return to the park headquarters or stay longer and continue hiking for another 4km (2.5 miles) to reach 1310m (4298ft) Mt Magdalena.

Tips for hiking in Malaysia

When it comes to the rainforest, you don’t play play (mess around), as they say in these parts. Never set out on a hike without letting someone know where you are going – you really don’t want to get lost with nobody looking for you. Even better, hire a guide – they’re recommended for a reason, especially in Borneo.

Here are some more essential tips.

• Always carry plenty of drinking water (or a water filter to purify water as you go). More popular trails may have rest stops for hikers where you can find water, but carry plenty of your own just in case.
• Trails are generally maintained by locals rather than by the authorities, so don’t expect clear signage and comprehensive facilities. Make sure you are clear on the route before you set off, or take a local guide.
• Always carry a fully charged smartphone (and ideally a backup power bank) and load it with offline GPS applications such as Maps.me, Gaia GPS or Relive, which all have excellent mapping covering the most popular trails in Malaysia.
• Never set off on your own. At ground level, the jungle looks like a wall of continuous green and it’s very easy to miss a turn and get lost. Plenty of local hikers head out to the trails on any given day, and there are several Facebook hiking groups where you can find friendly trail mates.

From what to pack to navigating the nation’s confounding ethnic and religious tapestry, these are the top things to know before you embark on a trip to Malaysia – an experience that can often feel like being in several countries at once.

Planning your trip to Malaysia

Malaysia is a dazzlingly diverse country

Be prepared for many types of culture shock. In multi-ethnic yet predominantly Islamic Peninsular Malaysia, a 69.8% majority of Malay Muslims share the land with ethnic Chinese, Tamil Indians, and a dozen aboriginal groups categorized as orang asli (original peoples). This means that red lantern-studded Chinese temples sit next to Hindu gopurams (temple gates) and the onion-shaped domes of intricate, modern mosques. Prayers go up to the sky in three main languages – Bahasa Malaysia, Mandarin, and Tamil – and to three main religions: Islam, Chinese Taoism and Hinduism.

A short flight away across the South China Sea, the East Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah in Borneo feel like another world. The former has some 26 different ethnic groups, most of whom are Christian or Protestant, while Sabah is home to another 33 who communicate in over 50 languages and 80 dialects.

Pack for an eternal summer – but carry a light jacket

Tropical Malaysia enjoys steamy temperatures hovering around 86°F (30°C) year long. All you really need to pack are light, loose fitting cotton clothes to best cope with heat and humidity, and a pair of sneakers and flip-flops. If you forget anything you can pick it up here. Also pack a hoodie or light jacket to prepare for the Malaysian habit of keeping air conditioning to frosty levels, especially inside shopping malls, buses and trains.

Technology is widely available… 

Kuala Lumpur must be one of the world’s most futuristic cities, with ever-expanding highways, towers and skyscrapers eternally contending for space. Beyond the capital, there’s excellent 4G mobile network coverage and fast wifi at most hotels and guest houses across the nation. Celcom is the best operator when traveling the Peninsula’s jungly interior and Borneo. 

…but carry cash in the interior

ATMS (cashpoints) are widely available, but thin out in the countryside, and are often hard to find outside of Borneo’s main cities. Stock up on the local currency, the Malaysian ringgit (equal to US$0.24 at the time of writing) if planning to go off the grid. 

The food is something to write home about

The delightfully spicy intricacies of Malaysian food (a concoction of curries, southern Chinese cuisines, and pan-Indian dishes that never stop intermarrying) are best consumed fresh off the street, served without embellishments by cranky local “uncles” – slang for older person – on plastic plates. 

The alternative is to sit and rub elbows with locals at a food court, or “hawker center” – large open areas, usually covered by a rooftop, packed with simple food stalls squeezed one against the other.

Partying is a bit more expensive

Compared to its backpacker-centric Southeast Asian neighbors Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, Malaysia is a more expensive party destination because of heavy taxes on alcohol, which is forbidden to Muslims. The rest of the population is free to drink, but forced to pay a higher price.

Alcohol is widely available in major tourist cities like Kuala Lumpur, George Town, Ipoh, Melaka and Johor Bahru while in smaller towns, beer is most often available at Chinese-run businesses. The best antidote to steep drinks and cigarette prices is a visit to the tax-free islands of Langkawi and Tioman.

Etiquette in Malaysia

Dress casual but modest

Due to the constant punishing heat, Malaysia’s dress code is very casual. Wearing short pants, sandals, flip-flops and t-shirts is the accepted norm everywhere, but is considered rude when visiting public offices, where long slacks, close-toed shoes and collared shirts are expected. In Malaysia’s many kampung (villages), avoid revealing outfits to comply with local religious sensibilities. 

Modesty is also essential when choosing your beach wear. Bikinis and speedos are fine at big hotels, resorts and the tourist islands off the East Coast, such as Pulau Perhentian and Pualu Redang. But it’s best to wear one piece bathing suits and knee-length swimming trunks on any other beach, where the locals dip fully clothed.

It’s OK to speak in English, if you don’t know Malay

Picking up some survival Bahasa Malaysia (Malay language), the national lingo, is pretty straightforward – with its Roman alphabet and absence of tones, it’s one of the easiest Asian languages to learn. But it’s fine to speak English, especially with Malaysian Chinese and Indians, whose mother tongues are not Malay. Blame it on the British colonization, but practically everyone can communicate in English, and most prefer to do so when talking to foreigners.

You might be unknowingly rude

When pointing at someone or something, use the thumb and not the index finger, which is considered rude in Malaysia. Always keep your voice down, for raising the tone is an absolute no-no – like asking direct questions, which many Malaysians may take as “losing face” or an invasion of their personal space.

When shaking hands, always remember to use your right hand, for the left is considered “toilet hand” in any Islamic culture. The only dining etiquette that matters in Malaysia is to never use the left hand when trying to eat with fingers like many locals do.

Respect nature, and its spirits 

When a bunch of foreign tourists bared their bottoms on top of Mount Kinabalu in 2015, enraged Kadazan-Dusun locals blamed their act for the consequent magnitude 5.9 earthquake that killed at least 16 and snapped one of the sacred mountain top’s two iconic “Donkey Ear” outcrops. 

Malaysians are very superstitious: The animist beliefs that predate the arrival of Islam to the Malay Peninsula have helped foster an uncanny supernatural world in which nature plays a crucial role. For example, it’s common to “ask for permission” before urinating in the jungle, from where locals never bring anything back for fear of piggybacking a curse into their own homes. 

Whenever a group enters a forest, it’s best to give out nicknames or not call out each other at all – spirits are always listening. The orang bunian (invisible forest-dwelling creatures comparable to elves) can trick hikers and campers into following them deep into the jungle to never be seen again.

Health and safety in Malaysia

Call 999 for any emergency

A single three-digit number, 999, connects to the police, the fire department, the ministry of health, the maritime enforcement agency and the Department of Civil Defence. Dial 999 112 if calling from a mobile phone. 

Boil the tap water

Because of increasing pollution of water sources and aging buildings fitted with rusted pipes, it’s always best to boil tap water before drinking, or buy mineral water. Most hotels allow guests to refill their water containers. Carrying a water filtration system or purifying tablets can come handy when striking out on multi-day hikes. 

Vaccines are recommended

It is advisable to travel to Malaysia after being inoculated against Hepatitis A, Tetanus and Typhoid. Malaria is generally not an issue in cities and most forested areas, so a prophylaxis is not strictly necessary. Dengue fever occurs sporadically in cities, but as there are no vaccines for it, the best strategy is to not get bitten by mosquitoes – use heavy duty insect repellent.

For the latest on Covid vaccination rules check Malaysian government websites.

Malaysia is one of Asia’s top medical tourism destinations and boasts private hospitals equipped with excellent facilities. Make sure to have proper health insurance cover, or be ready to pay for the premium.

Beware of snatch thieves

Traveling in Malaysia is generally a pretty safe experience for travelers of both sexes, but whether they travel solo or in groups, female travelers should pay attention when walking along the busiest roads of capital Kuala Lumpur – keep your bags away from the roadside, for motorbike snatch thieves are well-known to target women, and some attacks have resulted in a victim’s death. 

How to travel safely for LGBTQI+ travelers 

While a 2021 court ruling suggests change may be afoot, same-sex relationships are not only taboo in Malaysia, they’re banned by federal law. For the LGBTQI+ communities here, the golden rule is to avoid publicizing relationships. In fact, public displays of affection are frowned on in Malaysia in general. Heterosexual couples: Take note. 

Drug offenses can get you to the gallows

Stay away from drugs in Malaysia, where 200g of cannabis, 15g of morphine or heroin, and 40g of cocaine mean a death sentence. Offenders are shaken down extremely hard or jailed even for carrying much less.